 |


 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
Since I was a kid I had always wanted to visit Kerela. Pictures of it always looked so... lush. So on arriving in Ernakulum I was obviously hella excited. The plan was to go to Fort Cochin, a ferry ride away from the main city of Ernakulum. I found us a really good hotel deal in a matter of minutes, and after settling in we decided to take a walk. Not even 2 minutes after leaving our hotel we were swarmed by people trying to sell us things desperately, be it rickshaw rides or postcards or paintings or cards or drums (?!). Also, it's not like they don't have an aggressive sales pitch. So I probably said "No thanks" a lot more times in 10 minutes than I have ever before in my life. We found out over the course of the next 3 days in Cochin that every area worth exploring, like there has been invaded by Kashmiris, Punjabis and Tibetans wanting us to "just take a look" in their "very nice, very good price" stores. No thanks. We did, however, manage to catch a Kathakali show in Cochin. Kathakali is a Kerelan dance form that involves lots of pomp and show. It was very dramatic and skillful. A riot of colour and extremely impressive expressions. I enjoyed it. So basically the highlights of Cochin were the reasonably priced hotel room and the Kathakali performance. The Kerelan backwaters are famous for their beauty and uniqueness. After Cochin we took a bus to Alleppey, also known as the Venice of the East by over enthusiastic tour guides, but the similarities end at both cities having canals. From Alleppey rather than taking an uber foreign tourist oriented houseboat, Morgan and I decided to take a ferry that the locals use simply as a means of transport. The ferry ride was truly remarkable. The backwaters are just the way I pictured it and settlements on the banks of it seem as if they have not changed in years and years. It was damn refreshing to finally get a look
Current Location: Chennai, Tamil Nadu Current Mood: curious
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |

 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
Gokarna is the hippy paradise that Goa used to be: remote beaches where you can chill, practice your little hippy drums, strum guitars and sleep in hammocks. We stayed on Kudle Beach. It really could have been anywhere in the world. There were people from England, France, Russia, Netherlands, South America and, of course, Israel (I say of course because it positively seems like Israelis have discovered every heavenly nook and cranny India has to offer and told all their friends about it too). There are beach shacks scattered along the beach that offer dirt cheap huts for rent. However, there was also this one small resort there, which Morgan and I decided would be the best bet since there are not many places you can find nice resorts for that cheap. So we stayed on Kudle Beach for 4 days, following pretty much the same routine - wake up and eat breakfast at a shack, skip over to the ocean, lay around, eat some lunch, skip over to the ocean again, lay around some more, drink masala chai or creamy lassis at a shack while watching the sunset, eat some dinner, shower, read and finally sleep. We also walked over to the more famous Om beach that is 20 minutes away from Kudle. It is called Om because the beach is shaped like the first part of the Sanskrit letter, somewhat like a 3. We hiked over a little hill there and took some cool pictures. Good times. After the days on the beach, we ventured into the religious town of Gokarna. We spent a day there, walking around, eating some south indian food, and relaxing in the hotel room. At night we decided to visit the famous Mahabaleshwar Temple, which has the most famous Shivalingum in the world. One of the Brahmins outside showed us around the different shrines in the temple and also the holy tank. We also saw an ashram there where the students are devout Brahmins and learn only the ancient language of Sanskrit. Most people would prefer to see the temple in the day time when there is all the hustle and bustle, but the advantage of seeing it at night was that Morgan was able to see a lot of it that isn't open to non Hindus usually. We also enjoyed the special desert of Gokarna called Gadbud (which means mess or chaos); it is ice cream of 3 different flavours with dried fruits, fresh fruits and nuts. I realised while walking through the town, that never in my 16 years living in India had I stayed in a small town like that. I grew up in a huge city, and other than to visit family in other big Indian cities I haven't actually travelled in India much. As a kid, my family was well off and we would frequently fly around the world for vacations. It is now, 4 years after I have moved to Canada, that I am exploring life in different parts of the country I was born in. Maybe it is for the best that this is taking place now though, since I have probably a keener interest in travelling these parts as opposed to when I was a kid. The next day, we took a very bumpy ride in a rickshaw ride to the Gokarna railway station, where we waited for our train that was delayed by 4 hours. Quite typical. Off to the Kerelan city of Kochi! Wish us luck. Current Location: Kochi, Kerela Current Mood: curious
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |

 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
Before we embarked on our trip, I did expect our rough plans to change. Just not so quickly. Morgan's bacillic dysentery compelled us to stay back in Pune a week longer than we had initially planned. Under the care and attention of my aunt, he finally managed to start recovering from his awful sickness. However, a good thing that came from us staying back is that we managed to score a ride to our next planned destination, Goa, with a really good friend of mine who had a Goa trip planned during the time. So Morgan, Zaeem, Meghav and I drove to Baga beach together. Initially, I wasn't keen on going to Baga since it has turned into a real commercial hot spot, attracting the likes of wannabe techno hippies and whiskeyed up Maharashtrian men. As I expected, Baga greeted us with the usual packaged tourists *oh whoops I mean package tours*, people constantly trying to sell us something and euro trash. Goa trance isn't as prevalent as it was here in the early 90s unfortunately. An outdoor shack type club called Curly's is trying to keep the scene alive. The first night at Curly's, Zaeem and I scored some LSD from the waiter, who also happened to be the DJ. As Morgan and Meghav were going sober, we headed back to our motel rooms pretty early. The legendary Tito's Lane (Baga's club street where we not so smartly chose to reside) looked freakishly like Vegas that Friday night. Rather unnerving. I'm hoping it was mainly because of the acid. The next night was supposed to be "a big party" at Curly's, but to our misfortune it got canned before we even arrived. Laying on the beach all day was nice enough for me; I didn't really come to Goa to go clubbing One of the highlights for me in Goa has always been the food. Prawn Vindaloo, Crab Xec Xec, Squid Masala Fry. Fuck yes. Morgan wasn't sick enough to turn down the gastronomic pleasures of Goa. Also, the availability of fresh fruit juice is a real damn treat. All in all it was rather pleasant. I enjoyed spending time with Zaeem especially. I cherish the times we spent in Pune and Goa smoking some good old charas and shooting the shit. Our companions finally dropped us to Panjim, the capital, from where they headed back to Pune. We spent the night at a tiny ass lodge and made our way to Gokarna in the state of Karnataka the next morning. Viva Goa. Current Location: Gokarna, Karnataka Current Mood: cheerful Current Music: Psytrance from the speakers of the cybercafe
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |

 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
We're here! Yayyy! The flight was long and draining but we sure as hell were excited when we landed in Mumbai. I think I was more excited for Morgan than myself though. Mumbai welcomed us the same way it always does, with a warm humid air and a unique blend of (for the most part) not so pleasant scents. The bus ride to Pune, my home city, was tiring and hectic, but it felt awfully good to be there. I loved watching Morgan trying to absorb everything going on around him. It was rather surreal for me to be in a rickshaw on the way to my friend Aniruddha's house with Morgan. It was two different phases of my life coming together. I love Pune. No question about it. It can sprout as many multiplexes and malls as it wants, the connection I feel with it will always remain. We met a lot of my friends in our first few days here. We went to my old haunts, and also visited some "famous" places in Pune that I haven't been to before. This included multi cuisine restaurants, forts, hookahs and eclectic coffee shops. We also ate. A lot. One of the things I miss most about India is the food. My friends and relatives tell me I've lost weight. I promise them I'm going to gain it all back in my 3 months here. Morgan's taste buds are probably in taste bud Disneyland. It also happens to be Diwali, the festival of lights, right now. The excessive bursting of fire crackers can get quite un-fun when trying to get over jet lag. However, the colours and flowers and celebration the festival brings are wonderful. Right now, we are staying at my friend Karan's house, under the care of his doctor parents. Morgan has fallen ill. It was bound to happen. He just got over a high fever not too long ago but is still experiencing stomach issues. He should be fine in a few days hopefully. And with that, I conclude my first journal entry from India. Goodnight. Current Location: Pune Current Music: Karan's random guitar
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |


 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
Well people, welcome to my livejournal. I decided to start this mainly to keep a record of Morgan and my escapades - and escapades they shall be - in India during the next few months. Needless to say, I am both excited as hell as well as nervous as shit about this trip. So wish us well. As most of you may know, we're working on a farm in BC now for a few weeks before we're off to Vancouver. Same old great place I worked at last year with the same old great people. It is refreshing, really. A break from city life and regular jobs. A break from hot showers and indoor plumbing as well I may add. Definitely a learning experience for me. Unlike last year, this season Morgan and I are living in a yellow school bus parked on the farm premises. That's right, a school bus. We have a rather cozy set up going on I think. There isn't much work this year so we have had a few whole days that we have devoted to reading our Rough Guide to India and actually laying down some semi concrete plans. Planning has been funny for me. In ways it brings comfort, knowing we're setting up solid ideas, and in ways it's causing me to stress about things like accommodation, funds, travel time, train schedules, long distances, jet lag etc etc. This may be anxiety. I'm not sure. Alright then, that should be all for now. Tomorrow shall be another day that will begin in the school bus in the valley surrounded by snow covered mountains, trees dressed down for fall, and ahem... exotic herbs. This livejournal thing seems to a rather exciting thing really. Glad I'm doing it. Current Location: Some valley in beautious BC Current Mood: high Current Music: Adham Shaikh
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |

|
 |
|
 |